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Rubber Band Technology

A simple idea involving a rubber band can help fill HP 5L/6L’s, HP1100’s and HP1200’s more quickly. These cartridges are usually filled (slowly) through the mag roller aperture. Another method is by using a cut down end plate to hold the mag roller in place while you pour toner through the OEM fill hole. Next replace the cut down end plate with the real one.

The purpose of the rubber band method is to reduce time in the assembling the hopper. This method caused a bit of comment on the Cartridge Conservation stand at the ACRA Australian Expo and The Recharger Las Vegas World Expo recently because of its simplicity. The method is this: Use a rubber band (with protective padding to protect the mag roller and hold the mag roller securely on the left hand end of the toner hopper, (see photo1) This holds the mag roller in place in its normal fitted position without the end plate being there and allows you to fill through the OEM fill hole with no restrictions. (see photo 2).

The packing that protects the mag roller from the rubber band can be folded tissue, or perhaps a shaped piece of polystyrene foam (you can reuse this time and time again). Now you have everything in place, fill the toner hopper through the OEM fill hole using a Multi Fill pouring cap. Once it's filled, remove the bottle and cap, fit the plug, fit the mag roller end cap (IMPORTANT: rotate the magnetic roller ‘D’ axle so

that it aligns (see photo 3) with the ‘D’ in the electrical contact plate), fit the electrical contact plate (see photo 4), fit the cartridge end plate and you're done.

If your going to use this method then you need to know how to remove the HP 5L/6L’s, HP1100’s and HP1200’s electrical strike plate from the mag roller without damaging it. Many of us just wiggle the contact assembly until it comes free,

however this will quite often cause some distortion to the metal plate around the contact area which is likely to cause poor performance, more so in the 1100 and 1200 cartridges. Damage to the mag roller axle (grooving caused by the electrical strike plate locking mechanism) or damage to the ‘D’ shape in the metal strike plate can allow the magnet some latitude to rotate about 0.5 –1º. Density of the print usually suffers when this happens.

Use a design knife with a new blade (and keeping your fingers out of harms way) wedge and lever the locking tongue up (see photo 4). This is an acquired technique which needs very little pressure because only a small amount of clearance is needed. The assembly should just slide off. This same step can be repeated to remove the metal plate from its plastic holder (see photo 5).

The reason for removing the electrical strike plate from the assembly is to clean the contact surface and put a fresh lot of electrical contact grease on the plate. Also, put a wipe of kynar powder on the plastic so as to help lubricate the plastic-to-plastic bearing. We do this on all plastic-to-plastic surfaces at time of reassembly. To replace the strike plate use a pair of long reach pliers or multi grips and squeeze the locking toggles back into position and you’re ready.

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